Spaghetti Carbonara

Spaghetti carbonara is one of the most argued-about dishes in the world. The most credible theory is that it was created in Rome after the Allied liberation of Italy in 1944, when American soldiers introduced bacon and eggs to local cooks who combined them with pasta. The name carbonara comes from carbonaro, meaning charcoal burner. What is certain is that the dish as we know it — guanciale, egg yolk, Pecorino Romano, black pepper, no cream — is Roman and relatively modern. When Jamie Oliver added peas to his carbonara in 2018, Italian newspapers ran front-page stories. When Marco Pierre White made his New York style version with cream, the Italian food community responded with collective outrage. The dish is now protected by Italian food associations who publish the official recipe.

Use guanciale not pancetta or bacon. No cream — the creaminess comes entirely from the egg and cheese emulsion. Remove from heat before adding eggs or they will scramble.